Article by Ruth Amelung in Berlin // Monday, Jan. 25, 2016.
It is no secret that Berliners are huge fans of the casual Scandinavian style and its labels, including Odeur Studios who showed at the Mercedes- Benz Fashion Week on Tuesday afternoon. Known for a subtle touch of drama, perhaps even theatre during their shows, as well as their trademark scent, instead of a typeface logo, the designers Gorjan Lauseger and Petter Hollström didn’t disappoint the Berlin audience.
A deep electro soundtrack, combined with a dark blue and moody light set the scene for the show, when the first set of models hit the runway as mere silhouettes. Still in the semi dark, the group stepped off the runway and seemingly disappeared to the sides amongst the audience, in time for the spotlight to fall onto the first look.
It was all black, a multitude of layers, strings and belts, almost styled as tails. The seamless combination of skirts and long tops is a theme that ran through the entire collection. In the spirit of a perfectly choreographed performance, the models from the beginning, stepped back onto the runway in between others, keeping the show upbeat and interesting to watch.
Bomber jackets featured heavily, with variations on the original pilot garment in almost every look. The adaptability, unique style and functionality of the jacket has persevered over decades and has really made the rounds within all cultures and styles. It’s nice to see that designers today still trusting in the timeless cut of the garment. A piece that stood out was a patterned reinterpretation of the bomber for ladies, keeping the characteristic puffer arms, but showing a slimmer and high-waisted cut, combined with a collar.
Several looks were a celebration of the trademark androgynous style with strong references to genderlessness as couples, both same and opposite sex, holding hands, wearing similar looks, occasionally with slight variations, walked towards the cameras at the end of the runway. All models were donning a sleek ponytail and bangs styled as a veil, men with shorter hair had it combed back.
The AW16 collection showed the usual simplistic yet characterful silhouettes and a majority of black and white pieces, but featured a few more patterns and prints than we’re used to from the label. Few unexpected cuts with finer materials like wool and cashmere were also seen on the runway. At the end of the show Odeur’s AW16 androgynous army came out in full force for the finale and the subsequent applause, swiftly followed by the designers themselves, as is tradition.
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin
Jan. 18 – 22, 2016
Brandenburger Tor, Pariser Platz, 10117 Berlin